Fungal acne safe checker (Malassezia triggers)
This fungal acne safe checker reads a skincare ingredient list and flags every entry that fits one stated rule: Malassezia yeasts metabolise fatty acids of roughly C11 to C24, so esters of those acids, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, free fatty acids and most plant oils are flagged. The rule is printed below in full.
Nothing is uploaded. Matching runs inside your browser, no account is involved, and the result is never stored. Malassezia folliculitis is a clinical diagnosis, and this page screens text.
Check a product for Malassezia triggers
Your ingredient list never leaves your device. There is no upload, no account and no server — the matching runs in this browser.
Matched against the published list, version 2026-08-10. Everything it can flag is printed further down this page, so you can check this result by eye.
The rule this checker applies
The rule has one premise and seven patterns. Malassezia yeasts are lipid-dependent: they take fatty acids from their surroundings rather than synthesising their own, and the usable range is roughly C11 to C24. Every pattern below describes a way that range shows up in an INCI name, which is why the checker matches by shape rather than by membership.
C11–C24
| What the pattern matches | Why the rule flags it | Names it catches on a label |
|---|---|---|
| Esters of C11–C24 fatty acids | The acid is still there, bound to an alcohol | Isopropyl Myristate, Glyceryl Stearate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Decyl Oleate |
| Polysorbates and sorbitan esters | Emulsifiers built from the same fatty acids | Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Oleate |
| PEG and PPG esters of fatty acids | The polyether chain does not remove the acid | PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-100 Distearate, PEG-200 Dilaurate |
| Ethoxylated fatty alcohols | The fatty alcohol survives the ethoxylation | Laureth-4, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, Oleth-3, Beheneth-25 |
| Free fatty acids in the range | Nothing has to be cleaved first | Lauric Acid, Myristic Acid, Stearic Acid, Oleic Acid, Linoleic Acid |
| Plant oils and butters | Nearly all carry acids inside the range | Any name ending in Oil, Butter, Seed Oil, Kernel Oil or Fruit Oil |
| Ferments and yeast-derived filtrates | Held as a precaution, because a name does not reveal what a ferment contains | Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces Ferment, Malt Extract |
The plant-oil pattern deserves a note, because it is the one people are surprised by. It matches
the suffix of the parsed name rather than a list of plants. A list of plants promised
completeness it could never deliver: there are thousands of botanical species in cosmetics, and the
label rarely gives the common name. The label entry Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil normalises to
cocos nucifera oil, in which the word coconut no longer appears at all, so a plant list would
miss it while a suffix rule catches it.
Getting to that normalised form is its own small piece of engineering, and it decides how many lines survive to be judged. The parser splits on brackets by one test: a comma inside the brackets means a nested list, as on a food label, and no comma means the brackets gloss the name beside them, as on an INCI label. Without that test a single ingredient shatters into three entries that do not exist, and the tally of recognised lines — the number the whole result rests on — stops meaning anything.
The exceptions, and why each one is an exception
Six exception groups, eighteen names in total, are checked before any pattern runs. Without them the rule lies in the opposite direction: squalane and MCT oil look like esters by the morphology of their names, the yeast cannot use either, and a checker that flagged them would send people away from the two lipids most often reached for.
| Held out of the flags | Reason the pattern does not apply |
|---|---|
| Squalane, squalene | A hydrocarbon, not a fatty-acid ester |
| Caprylic/capric triglyceride | C8–C10 fatty acids, shorter than the range the yeast can use |
| Mineral oil, paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum | Mineral origin; contains no fatty acids |
| Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol | Silicones, not fatty-acid esters |
| Glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol | Humectants, not lipids |
| Zinc stearate, magnesium stearate | Metal salts of stearic acid; in powder formats they are not bioavailable to the yeast |
The caprylic entry shows how the two halves interlock. The ester pattern deliberately includes
caprylate and caprate so that stray C8–C10 esters are not silently ignored, and the exception
list then pulls caprylic/capric triglyceride back out by name. Rule first, exception second, both
published — that ordering is the whole design.
Why a stated rule beats a copied list
Every other Malassezia checker matches against a trigger list, and those lists trace back to a handful of community compilations that carry no open licence and no stated method. Copying one would mean inheriting somebody else’s judgement calls without being able to explain a single entry. This page states the criterion instead, so a result can be re-derived by hand.
A copied list can only tell you that somebody once decided an ingredient was a trigger. A published rule tells you why, which means you can apply it yourself to the one name the checker has never seen.
It also fixes the coverage problem honestly. A list is finite and the ingredient dictionary is not: new esters and new botanical extracts appear on labels constantly. A rule expressed as name morphology reaches ingredients that were never entered into any database, and where it fails it fails visibly, in the not-recognised column rather than in silence.
How to read the three answers
The output separates three states, and the middle one is the state most checkers hide. A binary tool that prints “no triggers found” over four unparsed lines has converted a gap in its own vocabulary into a statement about your product. The tally at the top of every result says how many of the lines were actually read.
Matched the rule
The name fits one of the seven patterns and is not on the exception list. The result names which pattern matched, so you can check the reasoning yourself.
Recognised, no pattern matched
The name is a known cosmetic ingredient and no pattern applies to it. That is a statement about this rule, not a guarantee about your skin.
Not recognised
The name could not be placed at all — a trade name, a truncated entry, or a botanical term covering several materials. Not recognised never means safe.
The order of the output is deliberate as well. Matches come first, unrecognised names come second, and cleanly matched-nothing lines come last, because the unrecognised group is the part that changes how much weight the rest deserves. Four unreadable lines out of thirty-two make a clean result a much weaker statement, and burying that at the bottom would be a design choice about comfort rather than accuracy.
Fungal acne and comedonal acne are different questions
Malassezia folliculitis and comedonal acne are separate conditions with separate ingredient questions, and they are told apart by a clinician examining the skin, never by an ingredient list. An ingredient can be flagged by one screen and cleared by the other, which is exactly why this site keeps two tools on two URLs instead of one combined verdict.
| Question | Malassezia folliculitis | Comedonal acne |
|---|---|---|
| What the ingredient screen looks for | Fatty acids of roughly C11–C24 in any bound or free form | Membership of a published comedogenic list |
| Output | Match or no match; there is no scale | A rating from 0 to 5 |
| Where the criterion comes from | A rule written out on this page | Private compilations that disagree with one another |
| Who can identify the condition itself | A clinician | A clinician |
If the concern is blackheads and closed comedones rather than the uniform itchy papules of folliculitis, the pore-clogging ingredients checker matches against a published list with ratings attached, and how comedogenic ratings are produced explains why two reputable lists can contradict each other on the same material.
Some ingredients appear in both screens for unrelated reasons, and coconut oil on both screens is the clearest case: it carries a rating of 4 on the published comedogenic list, and separately it is a plant oil rich in lauric acid, so the Malassezia rule flags it too. Two different criteria, one ingredient, no shared logic.
Where this checker is the wrong tool
A rule that reads name shape cannot read a formulation. It does not know concentration, it does not know whether an ester sits at trace level or carries the texture, and it flags a whole category where a human curator might have cleared one member of it. Those are real limits, and they are the reason this page publishes the rule rather than a score.
A published rule (this page)
Seven patterns and eighteen named exceptions, all printed above, applied to the INCI names you paste. Any result can be re-derived by hand from the label alone.
A hand-curated trigger database
A maintained verdict per ingredient, accumulated over years from user reports and individual judgement, which allows one oil to be cleared while its neighbours stay flagged.
What this page will not tell you
No regulator issues Malassezia trigger lists, and none issues comedogenic lists either. There is no FDA, EU or global body that certifies, audits or standardises either kind of list, published versions disagree with each other, and this page is a private compilation like all the others — the only difference is that its criterion is written down where you can argue with it.
It will also not tell you whether a named product from a named brand will break you out. That is a claim about a specific company’s goods and this site does not make those. The checker reads only text you paste in yourself, the result is generated in your browser, and it is never stored or published.
None of this is medical advice, and nothing here diagnoses anything. Persistent, itchy or painful breakouts are worth taking to a dermatologist, who can distinguish Malassezia folliculitis from comedonal acne and from rosacea — three conditions that an ingredient list cannot tell apart.
Common questions
How do I check whether a product is fungal acne safe
Why is squalane not flagged as a Malassezia trigger
Why does this checker flag nearly every plant oil
Can an ingredient list tell me I have fungal acne
When is this fungal acne checker the wrong tool
Sources
Every factual claim on this page that can be checked against a document is listed here with the document it comes from.
- A study of the fatty acid metabolism of the yeast Pityrosporum ovalePubMed (Biochemical Journal, 1968) · pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.govThe lower bound of the chain-length rule — this paper reports that the yeast requires fatty acids of more than ten carbons for growth, which is why the checker starts flagging at C11 and holds C8–C10 caprylic/capric triglyceride out as an exception.
- The requirement of fatty acids by Pityrosporum ovalePubMed (Journal of General Microbiology, 1963) · pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.govThat the yeast's dependence on externally supplied fatty acids is a published experimental finding rather than an inference — the premise the entire rule rests on. The PubMed record carries no abstract, only the title, journal and indexing.
- The prevalence, associated factors, and clinical characterization of Malassezia folliculitis in patients clinically diagnosed with acne vulgarisPubMed (Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2022) · pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.govThat Malassezia folliculitis and acne vulgaris are distinct conditions routinely confused on clinical appearance, with itch and lesions on the scalp, hairline and upper back separating them — hence this page's insistence that an ingredient list cannot tell them apart.
- Malassezia folliculitis: an underdiagnosed mimicker of acneiform eruptionsPubMed (Journal of Fungi, 2025) · pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.govThat the condition presents as monomorphic, pruritic papules and pustules closely mimicking acne vulgaris, and that telling the two apart rests on clinical examination — dermoscopy, potassium hydroxide preparation, Wood's lamp — none of which an ingredient list can stand in for.